Hiking 2962 feet of elevation and 9.5 miles on Oahu will get you some AMAZING views!
Have you heard of the Stairway to Heaven Hike?
If you have visited Hawaii and are a hiker, you have probably heard of the Stairway to Heaven hike on Oahu. This hike is also known as the Haiku Stairs, but I will refer to it as the Stairway to Heaven hike which seems to be what most people know it as.
The actual Stairway to Heaven hike is currently closed although off and on during the years it’s been open to hiking. While it was originally wooden stairs, it is now a steep steel ladder-3922 stairs that was originally used during WWII to provide access to the U.S Navy communication facilities on the Ko’olau mountains on Oahu. It was built during 1943 and at the time it was top secret.
The stairs have been repaired and updated but are still not open to the public and in fact the city council voted to remove the stairs in 2021 although it has not yet happened. There is a great grass roots movement called “Friends of Haiku Stairs” that is fighting to save this great piece of history.
The Stairway to Heaven hike is famous for its absolutely stunning views. You can see large sections of the island from the top of the stairs and eat your picnic lunch sitting by the old commuication station. The hike is closed but people still hike it illegally and if you are caught you can expect a $1000 fine for breaking the law.
The thing about this hike is that it’s all about the weather with regard to views. Often times the clouds come and it gets socked in on top and then the views are zero. That was what happened when we reached the top. But more about that later.
The craziest thing-
Here is the crazy thing. According to the research I did, there have been minor injuries in the past from people hiking the stairs of the Stairway to Heaven hike but MANY more serious injuries and rescues for people who have hiked this longer and more different route that I am about to share.
My backstory with regard to the Stairway to Heaven Hike
I lived on Oahu twice for 4 years in the 80’s and 90’s and I always wanted to do the Stairway to Heaven hike. But alas, it was closed. I knew people who did it but I’m a rule follower and I wasn’t going to hike it illegally. But it remained on my bucket list to get up there and see those views.
Hawaii is truly like home to me. It is my favorite place on earth to visit and my wonderful hubby takes me EVERY year. We rarely go to Oahu because there are just too many people. BUT this year I added a week on Oahu so we could do a few of the hikes I still had on my list.
In doing my research I realized I could get to the top of the stairs by coming up the Moanalua Valley Trail to the Stairway to Heaven hike. I explained to my hubby how this hike was on my bucket list and he was all in. The AllTrails app says it’s 9.2 miles long and 2962 feet of elevation. When we finished it was about 11 miles. I didn’t get my AllTrails turned on at the very beginning. I do find that AllTrails often underestimates distances. More about that in a minute. It’s listed as hard and that is NO JOKE.
Before you get scared away let me also add that we did this hike earlier this year when my hubby was 61 and I was 56. We are avid hikers and travelers (travel blogger–HA) and are in good shape so we weren’t concerned. But you need to realize it is a very hard hike. Keep reading for some tips to make it an easier hike for you than it was for us. We learned a few things along the way that would have helped.
All the details you need to know for your legal Stairway to Heaven Hike…..
Go Early & Park legally-
This is going to be an all day hike and it is pretty much full sun all the way. Start early, wear sunscreen, bring LOTS of water and snacks and be prepared for just about anything. If you follow the directions to the trailhead from AllTrails you will end at a local park. Do NOT park in the parking lot dedicated to the park. We did and some local residents were kind enough to tell us that they will ticket and tow you if you don’t have a resident’s sticker. Park on the roads just outside the park. The trailhead is right through the park entrance.
Consider your footwear-
You are going to get muddy and you are going to get wet. Embrace it. Part of embracing it will be preparing in advance for these two facts and wearing gear you don’t mind getting wet and muddy. But also gear that will protect your feet and give you support. We wore our hiking boots and just plowed right through the mud and the water. There are numerous stream crossings you will need to make during the first 3 miles. Something we wish we had was our micro spikes for the mud. They would have helped a LOT on the muddy, steep areas.
The first 3 miles of the trail is fairly flat, wide open and through some shady areas at times. It is also through quite a few stream crossings. Don’t try rock hopping (if there even are any) or removing your boots. Just plow on through to save time and hassle.
use some sort of GPS-
Save yourself the stress of getting off trail and download your route for your Stairway to Heaven hike in advance. There are some signs marking the trail but there are also some times when you would like a sign and there isn’t one. We saw several people who were off trail or who had been. You do NOT want to take extra steps you don’t need. There are several offshoot trails, and you could end up on one accidentally. I like AllTrails or Gaia apps for GPS. They have always been reliable (No, they do not sponsor me).
Once you are on the fairly steep elevation part of the hike you won’t really lose your direction. There really isn’t anywhere to go but up. But the first 3 1/2 miles have a couple places where you can get off trail. Keep an eye out for signs and check that GPS every once in a while to make sure you are good. AllTrails will alert my Apple watch if I am off trail.
Consider your fear of heights-
Seriously, check yourself here. This legal route to the Stairway to Heaven hike is not for the faint of heart. As you get higher up the trail gets more and more narrow on the peaks. You will be using ropes to navigate up these narrow areas and you don’t want to be worrying about your fear of heights at that point. I am not afraid of heights so this wasn’t an issue for me, but I will say I did think about it a time or two which I never usually do.
Make sure you will be comfortable using ropes to climb-
The ropes along this trail will be your friend. Make sure you will be comfortable with that idea and that you have the upper body strength to take advantage. There are a lot of different kinds of ropes as well. I do have to admit to thinking more than once about the mental health of the person who put the ropes in place and hoping they loved life. I was glad to have them though. There are parts you can’t do without them. We really wished that we had brought some gloves for this hike with all the ropes we used. If you can, throw some in your backpack. It will really help you with the rope sections.
Mind the nature around you-
The branches, bushes and flowers are not there to help you climb. There are lots of local plants and trees and we need to do our best not to disturb them while on the Stairway to Heaven hike. Take care of the beautiful island so that others can enjoy it for years and years to come. But while you are at it appreciate the beautiful flowers as you go!
Check the weather for your day and the previous days-
I wouldn’t want to do this hike in the rain. Now, granted it can rain unexpectedly at any time on the islands. But if there is forecasted rain I would pick another day. Especially in the winter months (we were there in early March). The mud really makes it rough in spots. And you have a better chance of a view on the clear days. If it’s actually raining when you head out, please reconsider. It won’t be fun. Plus, you won’t get any views at all.
Stop and enjoy the views on the way-
You can get so focused on the goal when on the Stairway to Heaven hike that you forget to turn around for a minute and see where you have been. The views are phenomenal and you need to turn around and check them out and take some pics. It’s one of the main reasons you are there. As you go you will see all of Pearl Harbor, parts of Honolulu and up toward the North Shore. Grab a drink and a snack and take a few pictures. If you are like us the clouds will have socked you in by the top and those are the only views you will get.
This Stairway to Heaven Hike is not for kids or dogs-
This is pretty self explanatory!
This hike seems to go on and on-
You know that feeling on a hike where you are sure it’s just one more corner and you are there? Or one more peak? But it’s not just one more? This is like that, only on steroids. We would pass people on the way down and ask them if we were close and they always seemed to lie. Just know there are several times you think it’s just the next peak and it’s not. Keep on hiking. You will make it.
It does end eventually –
This hike is long, tough and a little treacherous. There were a couple times we said, “what the heck are we doing”. But my hubby kept saying it was on my bucket list and we couldn’t give it up because he wasn’t coming back. HA! He also told me that he needed to research my bucket list from now on because he thought I might be trying to kill him.
Seriously though, we were so excited to reach the top but bummed that it was totally socked in. We sat and enjoyed our lunch and regrouped before heading back down. And we did get to see the stairs from the Stairway to Heaven hike. There are gorgeous views somewhere in there.
Down was easier but just a little. It seemed to be even more slippery. By the last couple miles we were talking about how big of a pizza we were going to get when we finished. This is one of those hikes that you feel a huge sense of accomplishment for.
Stairway to Heaven Essentials Check-list:
- Sunscreen
2. Plenty of water and snacks
3. GPS app
4. Appropriate footwear
5. Micro spikes
6. Gloves
7. A good attitude
My hubby’s perspective-
I told you that my hubby thought I was trying to kill him on this hike. Ha! I asked him to write up his perspective of this hike. Here is his take:
Moanalua valley trail to Haiku Stairs (Stairway to heaven hike)
We were visiting Oahu, and naturally my thoughts go to beaches, shave ice, surfing, golfing, sea turtles and fun in the sun. My wife had other plans. She let me know about her “bucket list” Stairway to Heaven hike.
Long story short, happy wife, happy life. When I am told something is bucket list, it means we are doing it and I put on my happy face and buckle up. It is usually something fantastic, unusual, and very memorable. I checked out All Trails for some inside info (should have read more in depth).
The hike is two and half miles out and two and half miles up. The first segment has multiple stream crossings and is best done by just wading in and getting wet. It was actually very cool and nice! The second half is straight up muddy trails with help from ropes. Actually, rope is very generous. More like reinforced dental floss.
You will get muddy. Embrace the elements or embrace the suck I say. In between mud walls and twine climbing, the trail is narrow and falls off both sides. I accused my wife of wanting to kill me at this point but reminded her that I canceled the life insurance policy when I retired.
The views back over Honolulu and Pearl Harbor were stunning over the hike but a cloud bank had set in by the time we reached the top and could not view the other side. I was proud of us for making it all the way up as we had seen multiple others much younger turn back.
I made it the whole way without slipping and as I am walking to the radar tower, I tried to step around a small mud puddle (I should have embraced the suck), slipped and fell flat on my face in front of all the twenty something’s that were there before us. Fortunately, only my ego was injured.
On the way down we noticed a hiker walking with ease and realized he was wearing micro spikes like we use in the snow/ice. Always an easier way. This was definitely a secondary fun hike. In other words, much more enjoyable after you are done and telling all about it. I told my wife that I would be checking her “bucket” from now on. -Kimmey
Learn more about me and my travel blog!
Have you do this hike? Or the actual Stairway to Heaven hike? Share in the comments! If you enjoyed this article please like, share, comment or all three! I’d love if you would follow me on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, LinkedIn or X.
Keep exploring,
Stephanie
Seymoreoftheworldwithme