See Yosemite National Park well in a crowd
If you are a traveler who loves the outdoors, you know that Yosemite National Park is crazy busy this year. There are no reservations required this year which has made it busy and the snow melt which led to TONS of water in the park rivers and streams made it even busier. The waterfalls are incredible this summer. We were in Yosemite this same time last year and the difference in the water flow is quite amazing. This is a great year to visit. BUT, how do you avoid the crowds?
Visiting Yosemite National Park with crowds
We just left Yosemite National Park after a 5-day visit, and we didn’t feel like we were there with tons of people. We also never had to take the shuttle because we always found parking. It really wasn’t that hard so let me give you a few tips to make this year a great year to visit this stunning National Park.
We stayed in the park at the Ahwahnee Hotel which I had booked last year. In the past we stayed outside the park but there is nothing really close enough to reach the majority of things we want to see in the park without a lot of driving. Try and get a cancellation at The Lodge, a campground or any of the other park lodging. You would be surprised at how often you can get a cancellation. Being in the park is really the key to beating the crowds. Otherwise, there will be a lot of driving.
Yosemite National Park Tips
If at all possible, bring most of your food with you. We actually never ate breakfast in the hotel until the morning we left when we tried the breakfast buffet. We packed lunch each day. Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches are our go to because they can stay in our bags for long hikes without spoiling.
Each night we would get our breakfast and lunch ready for our next day. Breakfast was eaten in the car on our way to a trailhead and lunch was on the trail. We brought lots of healthy and a couple not so healthy snacks too! Dinner was either a pizza and salads or burgers at one of the restaurants in the valley midafternoon to avoid crowds.
The first key to avoiding the crowds was leaving the hotel at 5:30 or 6:00 a.m. It sounds tough especially on vacation, but it was the biggest thing we did to avoid the crowds. Trust me, it’s worth it. We said so each afternoon when we were finishing, and the crowds were pouring in. Pick the big hike you want to do for the day or the big thing you want to see and plan it EARLY. For us it’s hiking.
We had lots of hikes we wanted to do so we had one planned for each of the 5 days we were in the park. We tackled our first hike which lasted anywhere from noon to 3:00 p.m. Without fail we made it to our destination without any crowds and only ran into people on our way back. We really did feel like we had the park to ourselves most mornings.
After hiking in the mornings, we would head back to the hotel and chill for a couple hours. We were doing a lot of hard hikes, so the break was great, especially after getting up super early. After our break we would head back out around 5:00 p.m. to hit another trail or see some sights near the valley. By then, most of the crowds were heading back for dinner and to get the kiddos back to park lodging or they were heading back out of the park. It worked great.
Here is how we spent our 5 days exploring Yosemite National Park. You can adapt it to fit what you want to do and see. I’ll include drive times from the valley area lodging. If you are going to be staying outside the park you will need to adjust your start times.
Yosemite National Park: Day One
We arrived on a Friday afternoon and got settled into the hotel. It was after dinner time, so we walked from the Ahwahnee to see the Lower Yosemite Falls. This is a great hike through part of the Valley Loop and into some woods up to the falls. It’s paved, not too steep and accessible to all. The trail was not busy at this time of day.
We mostly passed people leaving the area so it’s a great time to explore this area. The falls are stunning this year because of all the water. It was amazing the difference in the falls from last year to this year. We visited last year at the exact same time and the falls were just a trickle.
This year the overlook was full of mist, and you get wet just crossing the bridge. Last year several of our gang crawled up the rocks under the falls all the way to the base and swam in the small pool because it was so calm. There was not way you could even attempt that this year. What a difference 80 feet of snowpack will make.
Before packing it in for the night we wandered the valley a bit on the way to the hotel for beautiful views of Half Dome and the falls as we got further from them. Such a nice cool hike after the heat of the day. I really recommend seeing this during the after-dinner hours to enjoy it without the crowds.
Yosemite National Park: Day Two
On day 2 we were up and out by 6:00 a.m. Last year Glacier Point Road had been closed for construction, and we didn’t want to miss out this year. Our first stop was the Sentinel Dome Trailhead which was about an hour and fifteen minutes from the valley. When we arrived we were the 5th car in the parking lot. This hike is mostly shaded for the first half and is through a nice, wooded area.
Eventually, you will see the dome ahead and may be a bit intimated. Don’t worry, you aren’t hiking straight up from here. You will go around the side and up a less steep approach. Just watch your steps as it is all on rock and may have some loose or sandy areas. From the top you will see 360 degrees of the park. It’s absolutely stunning and gives you a lot of bang for the buck or as we say, juice for the squeeze.
Be sure to wander around and take pics and find all the iconic places like El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, Royal Arches and Half Dome. You really can see it all from here so for me it’s one of the don’t miss hikes. This hike is good for just about anyone. Kids will enjoy the rocks at the end and it’s really not tough at all.
After our hike we headed back to our car and were off to the end of the road and the Glacier Point overlook. This isn’t a hike but a short walk to some amazing views. There is a large parking area at Glacier Point but by mid-morning you will have trouble parking. Because we headed out early, we didn’t have an issue but there were lines waiting around 10:00 a.m. when we came back to our car.
From this overlook you get close up views of both Vernal and Nevada Falls which is fun to do if you are planning to hike to them. It gives you an amazing perspective of where you will be heading. Right next to the falls you get a full-on view of Half Dome and from the farthest part of the overlook you can look down into the valley to see Curry Village, the Ahwahnee Hotel, Yosemite Falls and Royal Arches. It’s truly spectacular how high up you are and the views you have.
Driving back toward the Village area of the park you will see a couple beautiful stops where you can see gorgeous meadows and we were amazed at the wildflowers still blooming up here so late in the summer. Because this road remains snow covered so long into the summer everything seems a little more spring like up at this elevation and you get to enjoy the beauty of that late spring.
On your way back down to the Village don’t forget to stop at the Tunnel View overlook. This is the spot people most often associate with Yosemite so take some time on this way down to check it out. It was gorgeous with the sun higher in the sky. We came back later in the evening as well to see it in different light. Worth it for sure. Expect some traffic and congestion here. It’s hard to avoid in this spot.
We headed back to the hotel, walked to the Lodge and ate lunch at the grill about 11:30 before most of the crowds arrived. It’s a nice place to eat and there are great covered tables outside. After lunch we hit our hotel for a nap before our evening plans.
Around 5:30 when people are heading in for dinner or leaving the park we headed back out. We drove around the Valley Loop (one way) and did the Tunnel View again for another perspective. Then as we came down from the tunnel and headed right, we came upon the parking along the road for the Bridal Veil Falls area.
During the day you will be hard pressed to find a parking spot and because the road is one way if you don’t find one you have to continue all the way around the Valley circle again. By the evening we found a spot easily. The Bridal Veil falls overlook is not open right now BUT you can walk to the falls from the other direction and end up on a paved sidewalk the whole way. We did that and once we reached the creek under the falls we saw a trail leading up the side of the creek to the area right underneath the falls.
It’s steep but not too hard and involves climbing a few rocks, especially at the end. It’s so worth it. At the top we sat on a rock right under the falls and enjoyed the noise and the views in the early evening sunset. Children can manage this climbing and most mobile adults who don’t mind rock scrambling can as well.
You can see Bridal Veil falls from several areas in the valley, but nothing compares to being right up near it. I highly recommend this little adventure. From where we were we could see where the future overlook will be, and it will be all paved so strollers and wheelchairs can access it.
Yosemite National Park: Day Three
One day 3 we were out by 6:00 a.m. again. We drove to the Curry Village area (10 min.) and parked in the nearest lot we could for the Mist Trail. We got there at 6:15 a.m. and there were easily 25 cars ahead of us. The parking area is more than 1/2 mile to the trailhead so figure that in when you are planning. Get here early. I can’t stress this enough. Especially for this hike.
The Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls hike via the Mist Trail was a hightlight of our 5-day visit to Yosemite. I highly recommend this hike but make sure you start early and know your limitations. We did the Mist Trail up to Vernal Falls and then continued on to Nevada Falls. We enjoyed the sunshine and views at the top of Nevada Falls and had lunch before heading down the John Muir Trail.
The hike clocked in around 7 miles and the elevation gain was 2200 feet. When you head up the Mist Trail you will get wet. At least this year with the amount of water left from the snowmelt. It’s probably refreshing in the heat of the day, but we were there about 7:30 a.m. and it was chilly. We just threw on our rain jackets and barreled through. It was a lot of fun. The views are fantastic. It’s a good haul through a fairly wooded area with lots of switchback to continue on to Nevada Falls but well worth the effort and the views are plentiful. It’s gorgeous at the top.
The trail down is equally impressive right near the top. It’s a nice rock walkway with a cliff wall to your left and a rock wall to your right keeping you from worrying about the large steep cliff next to you. Water was coming off the rock wall and got us wet and was perfect. It’s a beautiful path and we even met up with a gorgeous mule deer who was coming our way up the narrow path.
This is a fantastic hike and I highly recommend it. It’s one you could do over and over. Get there early. We left at 6:15 along with about 50 or so friends (ha-ha). It never felt crowded for us except at the steps at Vernal Falls. However, when we got back to the Mist Trail area on our way down it was a nightmare of people. I can’t imagine anyone was able to enjoy any of it. I recommend going right around 6:00 a.m to enjoy your day.
On our way back to our car we walked the bridge over the Merced River which we had been following all day. It only took us a few seconds to decide to head to a quiet spot and ditch the shoes and socks and soak our feet after the long hike. The water is freezing and amazing. Just dip, soak, remove, sun, and repeat. It will be a game changer to help you keep going.
We walked to Curry Village and ate a whole pizza between us at the Pizza Deck. Pretty darn good pizza for a park joint. It was just what we needed after the hike. We spent the later afternoon and evening in the chairs on the lawn at the Ahwahnee Hotel playing games and starting at Half Dome before heading to be early.
Yosemite National Park: Day Four
On Day 4 we were our really early again. Have you heard of Hetch Hetchy Valley? Most people probably haven’t. I hadn’t until I first started researching for a trip to Yosemite last year. This valley was originally like a mini version of Yosemite Valley. But a growing population in San Francisco in the early 1900’s demanded more water and this valley was tapped to be the source of that water.
The Tuolumne River flowed through the valley and campaigns were launched to dam the valley for its water or to protect the valley from a dam. The dam won and the O’Shaughnessy Dam was completed in 1923. Today the reservoir holds 117 billion gallons of clean drinking water for 2.7 million Bay area residents.
There are also 2 hydroelectric plants downstream from the dam. The Hetch Hetchy reservoir is 8 miles long and the largest body of water in Yosemite National Park. Several waterfalls flow into the reservoir and you can hike to at least 3 of them in one day. The drive to Hetch Hetchy from the Valley is about 1 1/2 hours.
You actually leave the park and then reenter the Hetch Hetchy district and need to show your pass or permit again. We arrived about 8:00 a.m. and were one of only 3 cars in the parking lot. It was full when we returned.
We hiked to Wapama Falls which was 5 miles round trip with about 600 feet of elevation change. This trail starts on top of the dam, which alone is worth the drive to see, through a cool rock tunnel and along the shore of the reservoir. Along the way you will pass Tueeulala Falls which were so tall and impressive. Water from these falls is currently coming down and over the path so you will get your feet wet.
Well before 2.5 miles in you both hear and feel Wapama Falls. The mist is IMPRESSIVE as is the noise of the water. When you round the final corner, you start to feel the drench and see the bridges that you will be hiking across. It was a blast and well appreciated after a hike that was about half exposed to the sun and 90-degree temps.
We walked back and forth on the bridges taking pics and just enjoying getting cooled off in the spray. This year’s huge snow melt has kept the falls huge even well into July and you can enjoy the reward. Be careful on the bridges and rock trail as all can be slippery.
On our hike the sun shined just perfectly for me to capture SO many rainbows. It was fantastic. This section of Yosemite is not busy at all. By getting there early we had the trail to ourselves until the trip back when there were quite a few people heading out. You definitely don’t want to miss this hike. LOTS of bang for the buck. It definitely rivals the Vernal Falls trail for a great waterfall hike.
To read more details about this hike please click here.
On our way back we ventured further outside the park to get gas and lunch and headed back to rest in the hotel before our evening adventures. This evening we did a large portion of the Valley Loop which is a 20+ mile trail around the entire Valley. We did about 4 miles which included a stop at Mirror Lake.
This was so much fun to see because most summers it isn’t a lake but just a stream where the lake is the rest of the year. But, again, snowmelt makes everything more amazing. We waded around and then sat on rocks and watched the lake feed the stream before heading back. The Loop trail is paved so it’s good for strollers, bikes, and wheelchairs.
Yosemite National Park: Day Five
Day 5 was our killer day but one we had to do just to say we did it. We hiked to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls. This trail was created between 1873 and 1877 and leads from Yosemite Valley to the top of the tallest waterfall in North America and one of the tallest in the world. We clocked in at a little over 9 miles (with exploring up top) and 3400 feet of elevation. This is not for your occasional hiker and needs to be planned for. Heat and sun are a huge issue if you do’t start EARLY.
We started at 6:15 a.m. and still were in the sun almost the entire way down mid-day. It’s HOT and we saw so many people with minimal water. Perhaps they had filters, but you can only count on water for sure at the top. There was one small trickle we filled up from on the way up (at least as of July 25th). I don’t think you can count on it most years.I drank 4 liters of water and my husband just a little over 3 and we were glad for every bit of it.
The other thing to remember is the elevation is grueling (3000+ feet in just 3.4 miles) as it is basically the entire way with no places to catch a break. Just be prepared. This last comment may not be popular, but I don’t think this trail gives the juice for the squeeze that most of the other trails I’ve done in Yosemite do.
The views of the valley are spectacular, but most can be seen from Sentinel Dome after 2 miles of hiking. You don’t see the lower falls at all and get the full view of upper falls about halfway up the trail. From the top the view is not really of the falls at all but the whole valley area and the river leading to the falls which is very pretty.
If you get to the overlook at top, make sure to take the trail just a little further after visiting the overlook. You will head toward Yosemite overlook which is another mile and within a couple hundred yards is a neat wooden bridge over the river. It’s really pretty. If you cross the bridge and walk just a little way, there are some places to put your feet in the nice cold water and splash your face and maybe eat lunch before the hot trek down.
Please be careful about getting in the river. Since the parks founding in 1890, 53 people have died in incidents involving waterfalls, many here at Upper Yosemite Falls. Take your time on the way down. It’s hot and the rocks are slick from sand and dirt and the steepness. I got to use my first aid kit that I always carry with me for the first time after slipping on the way down and cutting my arm pretty good. Would I do it again? No, probably not but I’m glad I did it once to say I did.
When we arrived in Yosemite this year Tioga Road to the Tuolumne Meadows area was closed for snow clearing. It was just opened a few days into our visit, so on day 6 we drove out of the park to our next adventure via Tioga Road. The meadows were spectacular and uncrowded as I don’t think most people realized it’s open yet. We hiked the Soda Springs and Parson’s Lodge trail, which is easy, short and gorgeous and should be on everyone’s list while visiting the park.
Visiting Yosemite National Park
So, there you have it. How we avoided the crowds in Yosemite this year. It really was easy, and we seemed like we had the place mostly to ourselves. Hopefully this will give you some ideas on how to best plan your adventure. I’d love to hear from you via email and would love you to follow me on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.
Keep exploring,
Stephanie
I wish I could visit Yosemite National Park someday!