Upper Yosemite Falls trail? Should you hike it?

Read all about our hike to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls and why we LOVED it and HATED it at the same time.

We were in Yosemite this summer. We had been there last year with our huge family of 20 including 6 grands. We did hikes that were good for all ages from 0 to 60. This year we wanted to come just the two of us to do the hard stuff. We like to think we are pretty hard-core hikers. That means hiking places that cause us to whine and complain the whole way but gives us great reward and great stories afterward. This hike definitely fits the bill in all our categories. We call this secondary fun. Seems better later.

This is definitely a hike that makes people think about whether or not they have what it takes. So, if you are wondering if it’s for you, read on and see what you think.

To read about our whole trip to Yosemite in the summer crowds and how to beat that check out my blog post.

First, the stats on this hike

According to my go to source for hiking, AllTrails, this hike is 6.6 miles round trip with 3,254 feet of elevation. So, you are gaining all that elevation in 3.3 miles. Yes, it’s a LOT of elevation. It’s rated as hard on AllTrails and I absolutely agree. Usually, I think they call things hard that really aren’t. But NOT in this case. This hike is hard. With that said we did it fairly easily (not without whining, but fairly easily) and we are 56 and 61.

Here is the AllTrails link to this hike for you to check out the reviews in advance:

The History of the Upper Yosemite Falls hike

This trail was created by John Conway from 1873 to 1887 and leads from Yosemite Valley to the top of the tallest waterfall in North America and one of the tallest in the world. Yosemite Falls rises 2425 feet above the valley floor. The trail is configured with 60 switchbacks and you definitely feel each one.

The Essentials

There are a few important things you need to know before you head out on the Upper Yosemite Falls Hike. Water is so important. I went through 4 liters after filtering some from the top of the falls and in a little stream on the way up. We saw so many people walking up with just one water bottle.

You also need plenty of snacks to keep up your energy and definitely a hat and plenty of sunscreen. A large portion of this hike is in the sun after about 11:00 a.m. Additionally, I recommend a small first aid kit. We always carry one and have never had occasion to use one until this hike. More on that in a bit.

Get Started Early

If you want to do the Upper Yosemite Falls hike prepare to go early for so many reasons. This especially applies in the busy summer season. It gets busy. Getting there early gets you parking easily. We left the trailhead at about 6:15 a.m. in July. We passed and were passed by a few groups in the first hour, but it wasn’t terribly busy. It’s also so much cooler. And, if you start early, you will beat the crowds for the views on top.

When we were coming down after lunch it was a zoo heading up in the heat of the day. I felt terrible for them. This hike is already a slog. Don’t start late. Besides you will get your first disappointment when you see the sign at the trailhead telling you the trail is .20 longer than AllTrails said. Let me tell you even .10 of a mile matters. Ha-ha!

The first part of the trail

The first part of the hike is steep with many switchbacks. Actually, relentless switchbacks. Remember this 60 switchbacks I mentioned earlier? Prepare mentally. The path is not terribly rocky at this part and pretty stable. If you like hiking poles I would recommend them. I did not use mine and there were several times from very near the start that I regretted not bringing them.

So, you do switchback after switchback after switchback. Just when you begin to think it’s a lot of drudgery you are rewarded with your first views of Yosemite Valley and that gives you a little boost.

After numerous switchbacks and steep uphill you start to wonder what you are actually doing here. And I’m only half joking. Keep in mind the week we were in Yosemite it was close to 100 degrees. But we persevered. About a mile in the trail begins to change a little and you will come to an overlook of the valley. Some people hike just to this point but I’m not sure why you would do just this part of the Upper Yosemite Falls hike to stop here. I say that because this is a tough mile and you can’t see the falls yet from here and you can see the valley from many easier to get to overlooks.

The trail takes a turn in toward the falls from here and of course still up. You are about to get your first views of the falls themselves. At this point you are already above the lower falls and you don’t ever see those falls on this hike. It’s pretty spectacular to see the Upper Yosemite Falls for the first time as you round the corner.

This spot was especially cool both literally and figuratively because we were quite warm at this point and the mist from Upper Yosemite falls was so refreshing. Take pictures, cool off and get yourself together cause the really tough part is coming. See the top of that waterfall? You still need to get there.

A sweet spot

I mentioned earlier about bringing plenty of water or having a filter to get some more water up top. We lucked out because of all the snow melt this year and found a little oasis with a tiny trickle of a stream coming out right across the trail. We took some time to get some cool water, dip our hats in to cool off and stop and look back at the view behind us. It was a sweet spot. I don’t know that it’s there all the time so don’t count on it as a water source. But if it’s there enjoy it!

From this point on it’s really just a slog over a rock trail for a long time. You know how time is when you are hiking. Sometimes it flies and sometimes not so much. We just took our time, drank a lot of water, had a snack or two and pressed on. Soon we started entering a wooded area and just had that feeling we were getting close.

You will come to a spot near the top where the trail splits and to the left you can continue to El Capitan and to the right you head to the top of Upper Yosemite falls. You aren’t there yet but you are close. Follow the trail and if it seems to veer off stay more to the right and toward the valley. You will come back to the left part later. In about 1/4 of a mile, you will reach the top of the falls and see the amazing valley views. Stop and enjoy the views and maybe have some lunch. You will get visited by some local animal friends who are not afraid of you.

You aren’t quite done yet though. There is a rock stairway to follow down to the left for the actual overlook of the falls. The thing you realize quickly is that you are here for the views of the valley. The falls are not really easy to see obviously from above, but the actual overlook is a must if you made it all the way up here. It’s not big and the stairway is steep so be careful especially if there are a lot of people up there.

We spent a good hour at the top. We ate lunch, snoozed for a few minutes, and just enjoyed the sun and the views. It was a great place to rest and regroup. The top was not super busy when we first arrived since we had left so early. An hour later we started to see a lot of people arriving and it was our cue to leave.

Don’t head down just yet though!

Before you leave there is one more place you really need to visit. Head back out like you are going down but follow that trail I mentioned that headed to the left when you got to the top. So now you are following the trail to the right as you head back. I believe you will see signs for Yosemite Point or overlook which is where the trail continues on to. You will follow for maybe a couple hundred yards and then see Yosemite Creek leading down to Upper Yosemite Falls and an adorable bridge over the creek.

Go across the bridge and enjoy the views up and down the creek. It’s gorgeous. From there you can continue just a little farther and there are some spots where you can walk down to the creek and sit and put your feet in and filter some water to fill up your water bottles. We lost the boots and just enjoyed cooling our toes before the trip back down. We spent a good 30 minutes enjoying the views and the peace of the creek with very few people.

What goes up, must come down

Usually, I hear hikers complain about going down. Most of them prefer the up. I personally have never minded going down. Until this hike! I didn’t care for this down too much. For the first half going down there is a lot of slick rock. It can be dangerous if you aren’t paying good attention and going slowly.

This is where I was regretting leaving my poles in the car. It’s also where I got to use my first aid kit for the first time. I took a nice, big fall while I was busy gawking at the Upper Yosemite Falls halfway down and cut my arm up pretty good on the rocks. I was thankful to have a first aid kit and dentist hubby who knew how to fix me up. Just be careful.

We started on the way down around 12:30 and it was SO HOT. Full sun on you most of the way down and it’s tough. This is another reminder to start early. We saw so many more people heading up in the heat of the day than we saw all morning. So many people had minimal water. We mentioned it to more than one person who really just didn’t seem prepared and we were worried for them. This is not a joke. You have to remember that you are covering 3000+ grueling feet of elevation in just over 3 miles. Be prepared.

The views down are nice because they are now in full sun and look completely different. That’s a good excuse to stop and take more pictures so you take it slow and easy.

So, should you hike to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls? That’s something only you can decide. I hope this gives you a little insight into what it is like. We are in really good shape and hike a lot and we put this in the top 5 hardest hikes we have done.

The juice for the squeeze was maybe not worth it. By that I mean that you can get similar views from Sentinel Dome across the valley with just a couple miles of hiking. BUT I have to admit that it was pretty cool to say we accomplished this hike. And as I’m writing this and reliving it through pictures it sure was gorgeous and amazing. Maybe it’s like childbirth. You forget the pain and enjoy the reward.

My hubby Kimmey’s take on this trail–AKA

“Kimmey’s Corner”

“Upper Yosemite Falls trail is a must do hike if you are a “list checker”. The destination is fabulous with stunning views of Yosemite Valley and the Upper Yosemite Falls. The Yosemite Creek bridge up top is one of the nicest trail bridges I have ever seen and there are multiple places to soak tired feet in the creek. (Obviously, extreme caution is needed when approaching water above waterfalls. People die from being swept over the falls!)

The trail in my opinion is one of the least friendly for how busy it is. By that I mean it’s not a great trail for the amount of traffic it sees. Very steep with lots of loose rock for slippery conditions that are hard to pass people and be passed. Keep in mind there is very little shade for the last two miles. Saw multiple people slipping and “skating” down the trail and my wife has a nice souvenir scar on her arm from a slip. It’s not a hike I would repeat but I’m glad I’m done with it. Oh, I mean I’m glad I did it.” 😂

So, there you have a male perspective. I think we are both glad we did it but we don’t need to do it again. There are so many more mountains to climb.

I hope you enjoyed reading about our adventure up to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls. Please like, comment, share or all of the above. I’d love if you would follow me on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, LinkedIn or X for more adventures.

Keep Exploring!

Stephanie

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